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dstan7695

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I just ordered a bow from Bass Pro Shops but I have never used one in my life. Does anyone have tips for a beginner with one of these things? I was torn between a compound bow and a crossbow. I guess the obvious advantage of a crossbow would be that it can be drawn and locked and loaded so to speak right? What about maintenance on bows? How much money am I going to spend to keep it up and working. Does it require a lot of practice to get skilled at it? Thanks!

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I just ordered a bow from Bass Pro Shops but I have never used one in my life. Does anyone have tips for a beginner with one of these things? I was torn between a compound bow and a crossbow. I guess the obvious advantage of a crossbow would be that it can be drawn and locked and loaded so to speak right? What about maintenance on bows? How much money am I going to spend to keep it up and working. Does it require a lot of practice to get skilled at it? Thanks!

 

I've killed 8 whitetail with a bow, so I know a little bit about bowhunting. Yes, you do need to practice alot. You also need to get a bow that fits you, most importantly the draw length. The first thing I would do if I were you is take it down to a bow shop, I like Bucks n Ducks, and get it set up properly, get the proper arrows and points, ect. After that, it really doesn't take that much money to maintain a bow. Get a good target and start practicing.

 

Good choice on not buying a crossbow. In Texas, they are not legal to use on whitetail deer, unless you have a major handicap.

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Immortal summed it up very well. Not a great deal of maintenance. Keep the bowstring waxed. Make sure your arrows are the right length and then be consistent with field point and broadhead weights. Start your practice at very short distances (10 or 20 yards) and build your confidence before moving beyond that. At first it's gonna feel very awkward but you'll get the feel for it if you practice consistently. Shoot groups of 10 or so so you can get the feel. Always come to the exact same draw point. Let us know how you are doing. Once you get started and you get your first opportuntiy you'll be hooked whether you score or not. If you have other questions jump on and let us know.

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Very good advice from others. I would actually suggest that if you are a beginner that you send the bow back and go into one of the shops, in tyler ducks and bucks is good, and even gander mountain has a couple of guys who are fairly well at setting up a bow, and let them help you. First thing you need to do is shoot some bows. You don't have to worry about being good at it, most of them will only have a rest and you just want to shoot for feel and comfort. Then you can get an idea what you like. Some are super fast, some real quite. Draw length is important. Brace height will affect the forgiveness of a bow. As for shooting one it is really not difficult, the difficult part is getting the correct form. Any little glitch is magnified shooting a bow. The most important thing to remember is to get a very comfortable anchor point and work out from there.

 

Again, I personally would never buy a bow until I had shot it, but if you do, then just take it in, have them set it up, shoot a bit, once you are eyeball with your first animal, you will be hooked and a new bow will be shortly around the corner. Good luck. Do you mind saying what bow you ordered from BP?

 

 

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Thank you guys very much. It sounds like great advice. The bow is a Redhead Kronik Right-Hand - 25"-30" - 60-70 lbs. Here is the description and item number.

Engineered to be compact and lightweight with lots of advanced features for top performance at an affordable price. The 4" idler wheel and aggressive single cam produce top speeds while the moderate axle-to-axle length and brace height make it extremely forgiving. Adjusts from 25" to 30" in 1" increments with no bow press required. Polycarbonate 2-piece grip is specially engineered to reduce hand torque. Tough machined-aluminum riser, parallel limbs. Color: Realtree Hardwoods Green HD®.

Package includes: TruGlo® 3-pin fiber-optic sight, Hostage® capture-style rest, and a 4-arrow, 1-piece quiver.

Kronik™ features include:

80% let-off (adjusts 65%)

Brace Height: 7-1/8"

Axle-to-axle: 30–5/8"

IBO Speed: 304 fps

Weight: 3.4 lbs.

 

What are the "brace height" and "anchor point"?? I am guessing the anchor point would be the position you are in when you shoot it?

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Thank you guys very much. It sounds like great advice. The bow is a Redhead Kronik Right-Hand - 25"-30" - 60-70 lbs. Here is the description and item number.

Engineered to be compact and lightweight with lots of advanced features for top performance at an affordable price. The 4" idler wheel and aggressive single cam produce top speeds while the moderate axle-to-axle length and brace height make it extremely forgiving. Adjusts from 25" to 30" in 1" increments with no bow press required. Polycarbonate 2-piece grip is specially engineered to reduce hand torque. Tough machined-aluminum riser, parallel limbs. Color: Realtree Hardwoods Green HD®.

Package includes: TruGlo® 3-pin fiber-optic sight, Hostage® capture-style rest, and a 4-arrow, 1-piece quiver.

Kronik™ features include:

80% let-off (adjusts 65%)

Brace Height: 7-1/8"

Axle-to-axle: 30–5/8"

IBO Speed: 304 fps

Weight: 3.4 lbs.

 

What are the "brace height" and "anchor point"?? I am guessing the anchor point would be the position you are in when you shoot it?

 

Don't worry about brace height, it's not something you can change anyway. The anchor point is the spot where you hold the nock of the arrow at. Let someone who knows what they're doing show you about this. It is very important. Also, you need a bow shop to measure and set your draw length. It is good that your bow has a nice adjustment range for draw length. Unless you are very tall and long armed, you should fit somewhere in between 25 and 30 inches.

 

I had the same thought as Locutas about trying some different bows out before buying one, but I didn't mention it since you already had one on order. I think you should be fine with the bow you purchased. Just have a pro set it up and show you the basics, and start practicing. Good luck.

 

BTW, the first bow I ever killed a deer with was a used 1982 model Ben Pearson, and it was an absolute tank. I paid $75 for it, but it got the job done.

 

 

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I agree with everyone on here, especially about going somewhere and let someone set up your bow. Then practice, practice, practice.

 

One fun game we do if you have friends with bows. There is a target called "The Block". One side is blank-no target circles. On that side we do 9 circles the size of snuff can lids and play tic-tac-toe. Everyone gets 3 arrows apiece. Put a dollar in a can. Then start shooting one at a time. Whoever tic-tac-toes wins the pot. If it gets blocked or a "cat" game, everyone re-anties. Makes for alot of shooting, trash talking, Robin hooding others arrows, etc.. But the main thing is everyone gets practice.

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Don't worry about brace height, it's not something you can change anyway. The anchor point is the spot where you hold the nock of the arrow at. Let someone who knows what they're doing show you about this. It is very important. Also, you need a bow shop to measure and set your draw length. It is good that your bow has a nice adjustment range for draw length. Unless you are very tall and long armed, you should fit somewhere in between 25 and 30 inches.

 

I had the same thought as Locutas about trying some different bows out before buying one, but I didn't mention it since you already had one on order. I think you should be fine with the bow you purchased. Just have a pro set it up and show you the basics, and start practicing. Good luck.

 

BTW, the first bow I ever killed a deer with was a used 1982 model Ben Pearson, and it was an absolute tank. I paid $75 for it, but it got the job done.

 

Well, I actually got the bow from Fedex Today!! It's not a 'Redhead' bow, but a Diamond Kronic by Bowtech. I am going to have to practice to build up my arm strength to pull that sucker!

 

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Well, I actually got the bow from Fedex Today!! It's not a 'Redhead' bow, but a Diamond Kronic by Bowtech. I am going to have to practice to build up my arm strength to pull that sucker!

 

If you can't draw your bow comfortably with it directly straight out in shooting position, the draw weight is too high. It may need to be adjusted. Of course, it is easier to draw with a release than with your fingers. Again, get on down to a pro shop and have them help you out.

 

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If you can't draw your bow comfortably with it directly straight out in shooting position, the draw weight is too high. It may need to be adjusted. Of course, it is easier to draw with a release than with your fingers. Again, get on down to a pro shop and have them help you out.

 

Okay, thanks guys. I did familiarize myself with all the names of everything on it last night on the internet and found out some more things. I appreciate it. I have a friend that bowhunts also and he recommended I take it to the guy he uses down in Center, Texas at Wolf Outdoors so I am going to take it there Monday and get all the other stuff I need for it as well. Thanks again!

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I am not a bowhunter due to a bad shoulder but i tell ya what..this cool snap has got me fired up for hunting season!! Maybe the hurricane blew most of the acorns down..now we need a good rain to rot em.

 

Have you thought about a crossbow? If you have a bad shoulder all you need is a doctor's report and you can hunt. Check with the local TPW office for the proper license or stamp or whatever.

 

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Okay, thanks guys. I did familiarize myself with all the names of everything on it last night on the internet and found out some more things. I appreciate it. I have a friend that bowhunts also and he recommended I take it to the guy he uses down in Center, Texas at Wolf Outdoors so I am going to take it there Monday and get all the other stuff I need for it as well. Thanks again!

 

Just wait until you get that first opportunity to draw on a live target. What a rush. You'll be hooked whether you don't shoot, miss, or make the kill. Good luck!

 

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Just wait until you get that first opportunity to draw on a live target. What a rush. You'll be hooked whether you don't shoot, miss, or make the kill. Good luck!

 

I think I already am. I've a lot of Indian blood in me, so I think it will come natural. I don't even have an arrow yet, but just can't wait to shoot it!

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Modern bows when properly sized to fit and with the correct spined arrows will shoot more accurately than you can physically shoot. What I am saying is that you can get as good as you can without worry about the bow causing you to miss. I shoot a Diamond Gladiator and it is a great bow.

 

Your main concerns are going to be wind and scent control. Also concealment and being able to draw the bow without being detected. It is also much easler to shoot a relaxed deer with a bow than one that is on alert. They are quick when alert. The angle of the deer to you is important also. Try for either broadside or quartering away. Aim a little lower than with a rifle. I like to aim where the white meets the grey and right in the crotch of the shoulder on a broadside shot. Remember the hearts and lungs are inside center and try to adjust for that .

 

You are going to have to decide on a broadhead. It's hard to beat a Thunderhead, Muzzy, or Slick Trick in 100 grain for most sized folks with their size (spined) arrow. One advantage of Thunderhead and Muzzy is that now they can be picked up at Walmart if you need some quick.

 

Practice with broadheads. It would be great if they always shot exactly like a field point but that is not always the case. Don't go to the woods just sighted in with field points and expect broadheads to be accurate. Always use new sharp blades in your broadheads when hunting. The animal deserves a quick humane kill and super sharp blades are the answer.

 

This can get controversial. But I would recommend the whiskerbiscuit qs rest and 2" blazer vanes on your arrows. Those vanes really control a broadhead well. The WB rest is just almost foolproof and simple. No moving parts and your arrow will not fall off the rest during draw. Everyone has their ideas and this is just my recommendation. I have been bowhunting for 26 years and exclusively for 14 years.

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Modern bows when properly sized to fit and with the correct spined arrows will shoot more accurately than you can physically shoot. What I am saying is that you can get as good as you can without worry about the bow causing you to miss. I shoot a Diamond Gladiator and it is a great bow.

 

Your main concerns are going to be wind and scent control. Also concealment and being able to draw the bow without being detected. It is also much easler to shoot a relaxed deer with a bow than one that is on alert. They are quick when alert. The angle of the deer to you is important also. Try for either broadside or quartering away. Aim a little lower than with a rifle. I like to aim where the white meets the grey and right in the crotch of the shoulder on a broadside shot. Remember the hearts and lungs are inside center and try to adjust for that .

 

You are going to have to decide on a broadhead. It's hard to beat a Thunderhead, Muzzy, or Slick Trick in 100 grain for most sized folks with their size (spined) arrow. One advantage of Thunderhead and Muzzy is that now they can be picked up at Walmart if you need some quick.

 

Practice with broadheads. It would be great if they always shot exactly like a field point but that is not always the case. Don't go to the woods just sighted in with field points and expect broadheads to be accurate. Always use new sharp blades in your broadheads when hunting. The animal deserves a quick humane kill and super sharp blades are the answer.

 

This can get controversial. But I would recommend the whiskerbiscuit qs rest and 2" blazer vanes on your arrows. Those vanes really control a broadhead well. The WB rest is just almost foolproof and simple. No moving parts and your arrow will not fall off the rest during draw. Everyone has their ideas and this is just my recommendation. I have been bowhunting for 26 years and exclusively for 14 years.

 

Thanks a lot for the Advice guys. I finally got a day off today and was able to get it all done today. I got 12 arrows (Carbon, Beman 400's ICS Hunter) and I got 3 broadheads, Tight Point Shuttle T-Lock 100 grain. I first went by recommendation to Wulf Outdoor Sports in Center, Tx, but the guy said it would be a "few days" before he could get to setting it up for me and I wanted to shoot it today, so I called Bass Pro Shop in Bossier City and they said they could get to it today and for free since I bought it from their website. So by recommendation I had the Whisker Biscuit installed and I guess he kept the old one. But the guy was great and fast. I even got to go into their plexiglass archery room and practice right there and he sighted it in for me! I also got field points, a cobra mamba r-1 swing away easy adjust release, $35 hard case for my bow and arrows, a square target block, and had to pay $316 for all of this! But I am set and got the opportunity to practice there and when I got home, then took it out to a friend's house who has been a bow hunter for many years also because I noticed I was still shooting about 4 inches down and to the right from center consistently so he fixed that for me and then adjusted the 2nd and 3rd range peeps (I guess the green is 20 yards, the yellow 30 yards and the red 40 yards)??

All and all it has turned out to be well worth everything I have paid thus far for it and the only problem I am having is evident on my left arm with a huge red and blue whelp. I hit it 3 times at Bass Pro Shop, and twice since. But I'm just hard headed, I'll learn to move that arm out better!

The only other question I have right now is do I need a stabilizer bar on the front and if so then why? It did not come with one and the only place I see that I can place one is where the rope/leather band is screwed into for the wrist strap for the grip of the bow. ??

 

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Thanks a lot for the Advice guys. I finally got a day off today and was able to get it all done today. I got 12 arrows (Carbon, Beman 400's ICS Hunter) and I got 3 broadheads, Tight Point Shuttle T-Lock 100 grain. I first went by recommendation to Wulf Outdoor Sports in Center, Tx, but the guy said it would be a "few days" before he could get to setting it up for me and I wanted to shoot it today, so I called Bass Pro Shop in Bossier City and they said they could get to it today and for free since I bought it from their website. So by recommendation I had the Whisker Biscuit installed and I guess he kept the old one. But the guy was great and fast. I even got to go into their plexiglass archery room and practice right there and he sighted it in for me! I also got field points, a cobra mamba r-1 swing away easy adjust release, $35 hard case for my bow and arrows, a square target block, and had to pay $316 for all of this! But I am set and got the opportunity to practice there and when I got home, then took it out to a friend's house who has been a bow hunter for many years also because I noticed I was still shooting about 4 inches down and to the right from center consistently so he fixed that for me and then adjusted the 2nd and 3rd range peeps (I guess the green is 20 yards, the yellow 30 yards and the red 40 yards)??

All and all it has turned out to be well worth everything I have paid thus far for it and the only problem I am having is evident on my left arm with a huge red and blue whelp. I hit it 3 times at Bass Pro Shop, and twice since. But I'm just hard headed, I'll learn to move that arm out better!

The only other question I have right now is do I need a stabilizer bar on the front and if so then why? It did not come with one and the only place I see that I can place one is where the rope/leather band is screwed into for the wrist strap for the grip of the bow. ??

 

Yes, I would get a stabilizer. IMO, they help steady the bow while you're shooting, and I would chunk that strap. They just get in the way. You might consider getting an arm protector. They are cheap, and if you are having trouble with the string occasionally slapping your arm it would help. When I first started bow hunting I used one for a while. Later on you can chunk it when you don't need it anymore. I might even have one lying around you could have.

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Yes, I would get a stabilizer. IMO, they help steady the bow while you're shooting, and I would chunk that strap. They just get in the way. You might consider getting an arm protector. They are cheap, and if you are having trouble with the string occasionally slapping your arm it would help. When I first started bow hunting I used one for a while. Later on you can chunk it when you don't need it anymore. I might even have one lying around you could have.

 

Unless the bow is shooting absolutely vibration free and balanced perfect then I would invest in a stabilizer. Especially a stabilizer with some of the dampening material. They help balance the bow and a good one will serve as more than just a handle -- It will take shock out of the shot.

 

That string burn gets old. Especially when you string burn a string burn! Until you get your form down pat I would recommend an arm guard. Also when you are hunting and wearing long sleeves then it can really become a problem if the string hits your sleeve. An arm guard can hold your sleeve out of the way.

 

The advice imho is very sound that you are getting. The strap is going to depend on you shooting style. If you are a gripper and your bow slams pretty hard then you will find your self squeezing the bow hard. If you are a fairly loose bowhand shooter and don't want to grab the bow then the strap can keep the bow from jumping out of your hands. You can try it either way. I have had a bow or two jump out of my hand when I have been fully concentrating on the shot -- but I go kind of catatonic right before the shot.

 

The main thing is have fun with it. Make the bow yours and do what works best for you. It can get expensive though

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Unless the bow is shooting absolutely vibration free and balanced perfect then I would invest in a stabilizer. Especially a stabilizer with some of the dampening material. They help balance the bow and a good one will serve as more than just a handle -- It will take shock out of the shot.

 

That string burn gets old. Especially when you string burn a string burn! Until you get your form down pat I would recommend an arm guard. Also when you are hunting and wearing long sleeves then it can really become a problem if the string hits your sleeve. An arm guard can hold your sleeve out of the way.

 

The advice imho is very sound that you are getting. The strap is going to depend on you shooting style. If you are a gripper and your bow slams pretty hard then you will find your self squeezing the bow hard. If you are a fairly loose bowhand shooter and don't want to grab the bow then the strap can keep the bow from jumping out of your hands. You can try it either way. I have had a bow or two jump out of my hand when I have been fully concentrating on the shot -- but I go kind of catatonic right before the shot.

 

The main thing is have fun with it. Make the bow yours and do what works best for you. It can get expensive though

 

Okay, I chunked the hand strap and haven't had a problem with the string burn lately. It's just getting the proper steps down in my mind and memorizing until it becomes habit and I don't have to think about it. Much in the same way as when I first started driving an 18-wheeler and had to think about each shift I made while changing gears. Now I don't even have to think about it. I can be thinking about something totally different because it is committed to memory.

As far as the stabilizer bar, if that is all it does is stop the vibration of the bow after the shot then I don't need it. I thought it might have something to do with shot accuracy. But it has absolutely no vibration and is very quiet when fired. My Uncle was suprised that it made very little noise when shooting it. I just can't believe how accurate the sighting is on it. And this is a Diamond Kronik by Bowtech, which I read on the internet was a cheapened down 'generic' version bowtech made. I feel certain that if I have a doe or buck in my sights or hog for that matter that I won't have any problem with placement of the shot. Both my uncle and the guy at bass pro taught me not to put the death grip on the bow so I am loosening up and relaxing and only holding it steady with the front 2 fingers. Sound good ? Thanks again!

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I feel certain that if I have a doe or buck in my sights or hog for that matter that I won't have any problem with placement of the shot.

 

I wouldn't be too sure about that! LOL A live target is a whole 'nother ballgame. That said, good luck to you. I'm sure you'll do fine.

 

One other word of caution: do not attempt a shot on an animal until you are indeed proficient, or a shot that you know is out of your range.

 

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I wouldn't be too sure about that! LOL A live target is a whole 'nother ballgame. That said, good luck to you. I'm sure you'll do fine.

 

One other word of caution: do not attempt a shot on an animal until you are indeed proficient, or a shot that you know is out of your range.

 

Thanks!

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I don't want you to think that I was insulting your bow because I wasn't. Diamond bows were originally made in a machine shop in Shreveport and not in massive numbers as Matthews or Hoyts. They were machined and produced with the reputation of a small business owner at stake vs a larger company that has mass production.

 

I was just disappointed that Bowtech bought them out because I believe they would have kicked their tail when more people were exposed to them. Like I said before. A large number of modern bows are more accurate than I am. I have never blamed my bow for my errors.

 

My nephew shoots a Bowtech/Diamond and it is a great bow. I just was a Diamond/Diamond loyalist. LOL!

 

Good luck! I hope you get one and you'll be hooked for life.

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I don't want you to think that I was insulting your bow because I wasn't. Diamond bows were originally made in a machine shop in Shreveport and not in massive numbers as Matthews or Hoyts. They were machined and produced with the reputation of a small business owner at stake vs a larger company that has mass production.

 

I was just disappointed that Bowtech bought them out because I believe they would have kicked their tail when more people were exposed to them. Like I said before. A large number of modern bows are more accurate than I am. I have never blamed my bow for my errors.

 

My nephew shoots a Bowtech/Diamond and it is a great bow. I just was a Diamond/Diamond loyalist. LOL!

 

Good luck! I hope you get one and you'll be hooked for life.

 

No offense taken! I am just impressed myself with this bow. I bought it because of it's low price tag because It is my first and I knew I may not like it once I tried it and was expecting a generic bow and was suprised by what I got in a good way. I really don't see any need to upgrade from this yet.

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